I vacationed in the “Murder Capital of the World” | Travel News | Travel

If you’ve ever tried to photograph a hummingbird, you know that it’s no easy task. But there I was, at the foot of a volcano in El Salvador, chasing the fluttering birds with my phone camera. Pretty ridiculous, but pretty satisfying when I finally got it done.

I was in Cerro Verde National Park, home to tiny birds and very large volcanoes; Cerro Verde, Izalco and Santa Ana are the big three here.

The trails start from a large parking lot at the entrance, and a friendly guide took us deep into the fertile forests surrounding the base of Cerro Verde, pointing out all the unique birds, flowers, and plants that populate this magnificent park.

El Salvador is the smallest of the seven countries in Central America and has only been on the tourist map for a relatively short time. After a past of civil war, political corruption and problems with extortion gangs, the country is emerging with a new sense of hope and peace.

It was once the murder capital of the world, but crime has plummeted since 2022’s massive – and controversial – crackdown on the violent gangs plaguing the country. Outdoor markets and family businesses are thriving again and people want to show off El Salvador’s heritage, beaches, volcano hikes and nightlife.

It’s far less commercial than some of its flashier Latin cousins, which makes it all the more charming.

After we finished our volcano hike, we went to the food stalls to buy some delicious fresh pupusas. This is practically the national dish – a corn flatbread filled with all sorts of delicious fillings and grilled over the fire.

I chose queso y chicharron – cheese and spicy pork – with a side of fried yucca and topped it off with sweet pastels. Cheap and tasty.

Visit us between November and February when the 21-mile Ruta de Las Flores (Route of Flowers) in the Western Highlands explodes with color.

The path passes through some of El Salvador’s most beautiful villages: Nahuizalco, Salcoatitán, Juayuá, Apaneca and Ataco.

Ataco also has colorful street art that rivals the floral rush on every corner.

Juayua is the starting point for the spectacular Seven Waterfalls hike, which passes through coffee plantations and lush forests, with volcanoes looming in the distance.

This pretty little town also has a food market every weekend where you can sample all sorts of local delicacies, from grilled seafood to local sausages to the ubiquitous pupusas.

If you don’t have a car, you can get around by public transport – including the cheap and cheerful “chicken” buses – check the Centrocoasting website for routes and timetables.

We visited the El Carmen coffee estate just outside Ataco, where we followed the process from picking, drying and roasting to packaging and tasting.

I even helped rake some of the beans that were drying in the sun.

This is a properly working farm so there are no frills, but we were able to enjoy delicious Ataco gourmet coffee made in a traditional Correador dripper in the lush gardens of the property, which is home to a very nice B&B and restaurant.

Colorful birds flitted about and agoutis (think guinea pigs with long legs) sniffed around, and I bought several bags of the premium coffee to take home.

One of my favorite towns was colonial Suchitoto, about an hour and a half north of the capital, San Salvador. There’s a pretty flower-filled square dominated by the stark white facade of the Church of Santa Lucia, one of the best examples of colonial architecture in the country. On a corner next to the church is the bright yellow Casa de la Abuela (Grandmother’s House), which has a great shop for souvenirs and gifts, a quirky cafe for delicious coffee and cakes, and a handy ice cream parlor (in El it is very hot). Salvador!).

The lively central market is where all the locals shop for fresh produce, and you can try fresh pupusas here.

By far the most bizarre experience of my time in El Salvador was visiting the memorable Museum of a Thousand Plates and More.

The owner of this charming little spot just behind the church has spent several decades traveling the world collecting all sorts of decorative plates, which are proudly displayed from floor to ceiling in a series of expansive rooms adjacent to his home.

When he’s in town, you can enjoy a fun tour by the man himself – if you let him, he’ll give you chapters and verses on every panel throughout the museum!

This is the city for you if you like deep purple (the color, not the rock band); Indigo (Anil) was once the region’s main industry until artificial dye was invented in the 19th century and production virtually ceased. but a revival of local customs has led to a resurgence. At Arte Anil in the main square there is a shop with beautiful clothing and products made using traditional methods

You can also sign up for a workshop to learn how to make the dye from the anil plant and then try dyeing your very own scarf with your own unique design. Huge (very messy!) fun.

After reaching all the main sights, simply stroll through the cobbled streets and admire the pretty, colorful houses with their wrought iron window decorations, cute wooden doors and exotic flowers and birds.

Finally we retired to the magnificent Casa 1800 Hotel – a
Lush oasis full of plants with wooden balustrades and beautifully tiled floors.

Dinner is served in the terraced garden and breakfast can be enjoyed on the terrace overlooking Lake Suchitlan.

While El Salvador may not have ancient sites on the scale of Tikal in neighboring Guatemala, the country has a rich Mayan history and several fascinating archaeological parks worth visiting.

San Andres, Joya de Cerén and Tazumal are all in close proximity to each other and a tour of these places offers a fascinating glimpse into life before the Hispanic era.

After a dusty day of Indiana Jonesing, there’s no better place to relax than on the shores of Lake Coatepeque at the luxurious Cardedeu Residence.

Enjoy the beautiful lake views from the floor-to-ceiling windows in your room, from the various balconies, from the rim-flow pool or from the terrace of the exquisite cocktail bar.

The lake offers all sorts of water sports, or you can simply lounge in one of the lakefront cabanas and enjoy a margarita. Bliss.

For a country barely larger than Wales, El Salvador offers the visitor a wealth of riches.