Want more shrubs? How to make new ones from hardwood cuttings

Our gardens may be preparing for hibernation, but that doesn’t mean we have to rest: it’s time to free up shrubs!

The easiest way to propagate woody plants such as dogwood, forsythia, hydrangea, rhododendron and viburnum is to take hardwood cuttings in late fall or winter. All you need is a clean pair of bypass pruners (whose scissor function ensures clean cuts), a container, and a well-draining medium (a 50/50 mix of coir and perlite is ideal as it retains and wicks away moisture at the same time) . Well, yes.) No special training or expertise required.

And unlike growing from seeds, the resulting plants are essentially clones that take on the same size, shape and color as their parents.

How do I start?

First, choose a deep container with drainage holes in the bottom and fill it with your potting soil. Water it well and let it drain while you take your cuttings.

Select a stem that is about the width of a pencil and target one that was a new growth the previous growing season. Measure about 20cm (the length of a pencil) from the tip and make a straight cut below a small leaf node (a bump on the stem from which a new leaf will grow). Avoid large nodes, which are likely to be flower buds or leaf nodes on older stems and are at risk of rotting.

Cut the tip of the stem diagonally just above a node. Because plants remember their orientation, make sure you don’t confuse the top with the bottom and rainwater can easily roll off your cutting.

Repeat this process as needed until you have as many cuttings as you want. You can also remove a long stem from the plant and cut it into 8-inch sections. Pay attention to the knots and cut each top section diagonally.

Lightly dipping the bases of stems in rooting hormone powder and/or scraping a piece of bark from the bottom of each stem will help encourage root formation, but is not necessary.

Plant cuttings

Remove leaves from your cuttings if necessary, then insert the lower thirds of each stem, flat-cut side down, into the mix about 2 inches (5 cm) from the edge of the pot. The risk of rot is lower near the edge of the container because the soil there dries out more quickly. It is higher at the bottom of the pot, so do not push the cuttings all the way to the bottom.

Firm the soil around the cuttings with your fingers to remove air pockets and ensure they stand securely upright.

Over time, you will notice a callus forming on the exposed, diagonal wound. A similar callus forms at the buried end of the cutting and roots grow from it, just like the buried nodes.

Keep the soil only slightly moist – remember that new cuttings do not yet have roots and therefore cannot absorb water. However, they should not dry out.

Let them get cold

Cuttings must be overwintered but not allowed to freeze. Depending on your climate, place the pots in a cold frame, unheated garage, or sheltered outdoor location until spring, then move them to a partially shaded spot in the garden.

Check the cuttings regularly during spring and summer and water as needed. They can be planted in the garden next fall.

Jessica Damiano writes weekly gardening columns for the AP and publishes the award-winning Weekly Dirt newsletter. You can sign up for weekly gardening tips and advice here.

For more AP gardening stories, visit https://apnews.com/hub/gardening.

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